Shoe



July 16, 1940. PERUGlA 2,208,104

snow Filed Feb. 19, 1940 2 She'ts-Sheet 1 (Ittomeg Patented July 16, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE Andre Perugia, Paris, France, assignor to Saks &

Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application February 19, 1940, Serial No. 319,595

8 Claims.

a ladys shoe constructed and arranged to engage the bottom of the wearers foot at the heel and forwardly of the shank part of the foot with a minimum or no engagement of the bottom of the foot at the shank.

The above objects of the invention and other objects which might hereinafter appear will be best understood from the following description considered with reference to the accompanying drawings, which, however, are to be considered as illustrative of the invention but not in limitation thereof.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a ladys shoe embodying the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the shoe shown in Fig. 1;

- Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 are perspective views illustrating the shoe in the various stages of the manufacture thereof and illustrating also the method of producing said shoe;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the heel and shank' part of the shoe bottom.

Referring now to the drawings in detail and first to Figs. 1 and 2, the shoe l0 comprises as here shown an upper constituted by a vamp l2, a quarter I4, and provided with straps l6 and I8 integral with or otherwise secured to the vamp l2. Said straps extend rearwardly in crossing relation from a forward point along the opposite sides of the shoe to the rear upper part of the quarter [4 where they pass adjustably through a retaining loop 22 in crossed relation and then extend forwardly of the shoe at opposite sides thereof to provide instep strap portions Ilia and Ilia, respectively, which can be releasably secured at the front of the Wearers instep. Quarter M is preferably provided with the usual counter-stiffening and is self-sustaining, and likewise vamp I2 is preferably provided with a conventional toe stiffener. Other styles of uppers and strap or securing means can be provided, as will be readily understood.

It will be observed by reference to the drawings that shoe I0 is open at the shank and is constructed and arranged so that the shank part of the wearers foot is not engaged by the shoe bottom. For this purpose the shoe is designed so that the wearers foot will engage the same at the heel seat 24 and at the forward part 23 of the shoe bottom which, as heretofore, comprises preferably an insole as well as an outsole as will hereinafter more particularly be described,

' the inner surface of the shoe bottom being designed at the shank of the shoe to be spaced below the corresponding part of the wearer's foot.

The outsole of the shoe is indicated at 28 and extends for the full length of the shoe over the insole, the lasting allowance of the vamp l2 and over the bottom of the heel member 30. A sock lining 32 is placed over the inner surface of the shoe bottom and extends for the full length of the shoe and follows the contour of the inner surface of the shoe bottom.

The method of making the shoe ill will now be described more particularly with reference to Figs. 3 to 6, and from this description the construction of the shoe will more clearly appear. The shoe is preferably made in accordance with the method of making shoes by the cemented process. As shown in Fig. 3 an insole 34 is temporarily secured to a last L and more particularly only the forward part 35 and the heel part 36 of the insole are engaged with the bottom of the last, intermediate or shank part 31 of said insole being bent out of the plane of the insole in a direction away from the last bottom so that when an ordinary last is used said intermediate part will be spaced from the last bottom. As the side edges of the shank portions of the insole are visible in the finished shoe, said edge portions are covered with finishing marginal strips 38 of suitable material overlapping the upper and lower surfaces of the insole at the marginal edge portions thereof, as usual in shoes of the open shank type. Then, as illustrated in Fig. 4, after the insole 34 is attached to the last bottom, the upper and more particularly the vamp l2 and quarter M are lasted, and the lasting allowance of the upper adhesively secured to the bottom surface of insole 34 at the parts and 36 thereof. Said part 35 of the insole extends preferably from the front tip of the shoe to about the ball line. Then, as illustrated in Fig. 5, after the upper is lasted the heel member 30 of the shoe is secured over the bottom of the heel part 36 of insole 34 and over the lasting allowance of the quarter It. As clearly shown in the drawings the heel member 30 has, in addition to the heel seat 30a, an inner surface 30b, which is shaped to conform to the intermediate portion 31 of insole 34, so that when said parts.

heel and shank part is secured in' position said intermediate part 31 of the insole conforms and engages surface 30b of heel and shank part 30 as illustrated in Fig. 5. It will be noted that the shank part 300 of heel member 30 tapers to a thin edge 30d where it merges with the bottom surface of the insole substantially at the ball-line and meets the rear end parts of the vamp l 2 of the upper. It will be understood that the inner surfaces of the heel and shank part 30 are secured throughout the area thereof to the insole from the ball line of the shoe to the rear thereof, and to the lasting allowance of the quarter M. Then, as illustrated in Fig. 6, the outsole 28 is secured in position to and over the insole, the lasting allowance of the vamp l2 and the flat bottom surface of the heel and shank part 30 for the full length and width of all of Finally, the sock lining 32 is secured in position over the insole for the full length thereof, and as shown in Fig. l of the drawings conforms to the contour of the insole and to the contour of the inner surfaces of heel and shank part 30.

While I have shown and described the preferred embodiment of the invention and in connection therewith have ilustrated a shoe of one particular style, it will be understood that certain changes in the details of construction and in the arangement of parts may be made and that the shape of the shoe and the style design thereof may be varied in numerous ways which will readily occur to those skilled in the art in view of the present disclosure. Therefore, I do not wish to be limited to the shoe as specifically shown or described herein except to the extent which may be required by the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A shoe comprising an upper having a vamp and a quarter, an insole having a forward footsupporting part secured to the lasting allowance of said vamp, a rear or heel-supporting portion secured to the lasting allowance of said quarter, and an intermediate portion having an upper concave surface and a lower convex surface in such relation to said first mentioned portions of the insole so as to be out of engagement with the wearers foot when the shoe is worn, a heel and shank member comprising a forwardly tapering body secured to the lower surface of. said intervmediate and heel portions of said insole and to the lasting allowance of said quarter, the upper surface of said body in the shank portion conforming to the curvature of said intermediate portion of the insole, and an outsole secured to said forward part of said insole, to the lasting allowance of said vamp and to the lower surface of said heel and shank member.

2. A shoe comprising an upper having a vamp and a quarter, an integral high heel and shank having a downwardly, forwardly sloping heel seat and having a deep cut out portion extending rearwardly into the heel below the front edge of said seat and forwardly to the end of the shank providing a long front face for the heel disposed over the shank, an insole having a forward footsupporting part secured to the lasting allowance of the vamp, a rear or heel-supporting portion secured to the lasting allowance of said quarter and covering the heel seat, and an intermediate.

portion covering the front face of the heel and the top of the shank, and an outsole.

3. In a shoe, a bottom comprising a forward foot-supporting portion, an integral high heel and shank, the heel having a downwardly and forwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel and integral therewith along a line disposed below the front edge of the heel seat, an outer sole attached to the heel and shank and extending .the full length of the shoe, and means attached to the heel seat and forward portion for retaining the shoe on the foot.

4. In a shoe, a bottom comprising a forward foot-supporting portion, an integral high heel and shank, the heel having a downwardly and forwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel and integral therewith along a line disposed below the front edge of the heel seat, an innersole covering said heel seat, said front face, and the upper faces of said shank and forward portion,and means attached to the heel seat and forward portion for retaining the shoe on the foot.

5. In a shoe, a bottom comprising a forward foot-supporting portion, an integral high heel and shank, the heel having a downwardly and forwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel and integral therewith along a line disposed below the front edge of the heel seat, the lower face of said shank and heel being in substantially the same plane, and means attached to the heel seat andforward portion for retaining the shoe on the foot.

6. In a shoe, a bottom comprising a forward ,foot-supporting portion, an integral high heel and shank, the heel having a downwardly and forwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel and integral therewith along a line disposed below the front edge of the heel seat, and means attached to the heel seat and forward portion for retaining the shoe on the foot.

7. A combined high heel and shank comprising an integral unitary structure having a heel portion and shank portion, the heel portion having a forwardly and downwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank portion projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel andintegral therewith along a zone disposed below the front edge of the seat.

8. A combined high heel and shank comprising an integral unitary structure having a heel portion and shank portion, the heel portion having a forwardly and downwardly sloping heel seat and having a front face directed rearwardly and downwardly from the front edge of the heel seat, the shank portion projecting forwardly from the front face of the heel and integral therewith along a zone disposed below the front edge of the seat, the lower faces of said heel and shank l n in substantially the same plane.

ANDRE PERUGIA. 

